Warning issued over hair extensions as scientists discover several hazardous chemicals linked to cancer

Scientists have issued an alarming warning over hair extensions after discovering they contain several hazardous chemicals linked to cancer and hormone disruption.

Experts note that Black women in particular are being 'overexposed' to the risks associated with these products, and have made calls for action from regulators, corporations and government agencies.

It's important, however, to note that it's been a known thing for quite some time now that synthetic hair marketed to Black women contains carcinogens and lead, NBC reports.

Now, for anyone unfamiliar with how extensions work, the process sees human and synthetic hair often treated with chemicals to clean them and to make them flame-resistant.

But Dr Elissia Franklin, a research scientist at Silent Spring Institute in Massachusetts, highlighted that companies 'rarely disclose the chemicals used to achieve these properties, leaving consumers in the dark about the health risks from prolonged wear'.

For the study, Franklin’s team tested 43 hair extension products bought online and from local shops, with the range covering human hair pieces as well as synthetic fibres, including Kanekalon, Aquatex, Spetra and Mastermix.

Scientists have found that hair extensions contain several hazardous chemicals linked to cancer and hormone disruption (Getty Stock Images)

19 synthetic samples were marketed as flame retardants, three claimed water resistance, and nine were labelled heat resistant, while another three were promoted as having 'no PVC' or being 'non-toxic'.

"While prior reports have found some chemicals of concern in hair extensions, there’s still much we don’t know about their overall chemical makeup," Franklin said.

"We wanted to get a better picture of the extent of the problem.

"This is an industry that has long overlooked the health of Black women, who should not have to choose between cultural expression, convenience, and their health."

Researchers screened the products for a broad spectrum of substances, identifying 900 chemical signatures.

Machine learning was then used to match those signatures against a chemical library.

In total, 169 chemicals were detected, with several associated with cancer and hormone disruption, including flame retardants, phthalates and pesticides.

All but two samples contained hazardous chemicals, while 17 substances linked to breast cancer appeared across 36 samples.

Nearly one in 10 samples also contained toxic organotins, typically used as biocides, pesticides and PVC stabilisers - substances that are heavily regulated in the UK and the European Union.

The findings 'only reinforce what Black women have been saying for years' (Getty Stock Images)

Franklin said her team was 'especially surprised' by the finding, adding: "These are commonly used as heat stabilisers in PVC and have been linked with skin irritation, which is a common complaint among hair extension users."

Responding to the research published in the American Chemical Society journal Environment & Health, a spokesperson for campaign group Level Up said: "This new research on the dangers of braiding hair only reinforces what Black women have been saying for years.

"From hair relaxers to braiding hair, we are being overexposed to cancer-causing endocrine disrupting chemicals."

The spokesperson continued: "Over the last five years, Level Up has collected a growing body of research from medical and academic institutions around the world that links the dangerous chemicals found in hair relaxers and braiding hair to serious illnesses, including cancer, kidney failure, and fibroids.

"This evidence should be more than enough to prompt action from regulators, corporations, and government agencies.

"Black women and our children should be able to trust that the products we use, whether from small beauty businesses or multinational corporations, will not put our health at risk.

"That is why Level Up is campaigning to remove toxic chemicals from hair relaxers and calling on the Government to implement and enforce stronger cosmetic safety regulations."

Concerns surrounding transparency have been raised (Getty Stock Images)

Jacky van Driel-Nguene, a consultant trichologist based in the Netherlands and chief executive of Trichology Europe, also raised concerns about transparency.

"A key concern is the lack of ingredient transparency in hair extension products," they said. "Unlike many cosmetic products, these materials often provide little or no information about chemical treatments or additives.

"This makes it difficult for professionals to properly advise clients and for consumers to make informed choices about products that sit directly on the scalp for extended periods.

"Greater disclosure and safety oversight would support both consumer protection and better scalp health outcomes."

If you’ve been affected by any of these issues and want to speak to someone in confidence, contact Macmillan’s Cancer Support Line on 0808 808 00 00, 8am–8pm seven days a week.