Wearing SPF every day is not the con you think it is - dermatologists explain why

By this point, 'wear your SPF' is basically the skincare equivalent of 'drink more water'.

Somewhere along the way, incorporating sun protection into your make-up routine went from skincare advice to an unwritten law.

You can't open TikTok, walk through Boots or watch a Garnier advert nowadays without a sinister warning being hammered home about the risk of skipping out on SPF later down the line.

It wasn't even as though this 'new rule' was applied to strictly sunny days. Beauty experts have been urging us to apply it 365 days a year - even if it's cloudy, you're working from home or barely stepping outside.

It's become such a staple of modern skincare advice that many people rarely stop to question it.

Which is why, when one science and nature journalist claimed in a brand new Netflix documentary that the push to wear sunscreen every day 'was never really supported by any science', it didn't take long for dermatologists to push back.

Forgetting your SPF almost feels like committing a skincare crime nowadays (Getty Stock Images)

Appearing as a guest interviewee on Vox's Unexplainable podcast for an episode titled 'An Argument for the Sun', Rowan Jacobsen - the best-selling author behind In Defence of Sunlight.

What did Jacobsen say?

At one point, the show's presenter, Sally Helm, tells Jacobsen: "You did mention sunscreen there, and I'm curious where you land on the question of whether sunscreen is important, and how you think about it in your own life."

The reporter then replies: "I think sunscreen can actually be a great tool for helping people get outside more. The safe thing to say, from all of this research that’s been done, is that it looks like indoor life is really unhealthy for us."

'It was more of a public messaging thing'

Jacobsen then adds, however: "I think, probably, the push for ‘wear sunscreen every day, 24/7, 365, doesn’t matter if it’s summer or winter, doesn’t matter what your skin tone is, doesn’t matter what you’re going to be doing that day - even if you’re just at your desk all day, you’ve got to reapply all day long’, that was never really supported by any science.

Jacobsen claimed that some severe SPF warnings were 'never really supported by science' (Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images for iHeartMedia)

"It was more of a public messaging thing. Their message was, 'You really don’t want to burn, never burn, burn is bad'."

He continued: "But I think those little garden-variety quick hits of sun exposure that we tend to get if we’re just going about our day, those are going to be seen as a good thing."

Unsurprisingly, Jacobsen's controversial claims quickly hit headlines, sparking fiery responses from a number of skin and healthcare experts - amongst them is Dr Bernard Ho, a consultant dermatologist.

How have dermatologists responded?

Speaking exclusively to Tyla on behalf of Skin Health Alliance, Ho began by agreeing with Jacobsen that spending time outdoors has important benefits for mental and physical wellbeing.

"Natural daylight, received primarily through the eyes, helps regulate our body clock and sleep pattern, while UVB enables the skin to produce vitamin D," he began, before pointing out that these pros definitely don't outweigh the need for daily UV protection.

Dermatologists don't dispute that the sun has some benefits (Getty Stock Images)

'Dermatologists are not advising people to stay indoors'

"Dermatologists are not advising people to stay indoors or to fear the sun," Ho continued. "Our message is to enjoy being outside while taking sensible, proportionate steps to reduce preventable skin damage.

"A substantial amount of UV can still reach the skin on cloudy days, while standard window glass blocks most UVB but may transmit some UVA, the wavelength particularly associated with premature skin ageing."

Doubling down on 'recent' advice, Dr Ho added: "Using a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 on exposed skin is therefore a helpful daily habit, particularly when the UV index is 3 or above, when spending significant time outdoors, or if you have additional risk factors.

'The aim is not to scaremonger'

"Sunscreen should be reapplied during continued outdoor exposure and after swimming, sweating or towelling, but most people do not need to reapply it repeatedly throughout a day spent indoors and away from windows."

Dr Ho claimed the initiative of dermatologists recommending SPF isn't to scaremonger (Getty Stock Images)

He concluded: "Photo-protection should reflect someone’s skin tone, medical history, medication, skincare routine and likely exposure rather than follow a rigid, one-size-fits-all rule.

"The aim is not to scaremonger, restrict outdoor life or encourage unnecessary product use. It is to help people enjoy daylight and outdoor activity safely: avoid burning and use shade, clothing and sunscreen when UV exposure is significant."

Superintendent Pharmacist Robert Bradshaw also told Tyla he agrees with some of Jacobsen's points - especially that sunscreen should never be a reason someone stays indoors.

'The sun isn't always a bad thing'

"Being exposed to the sun isn’t always a bad thing," he began. "Studies show that it’s good for vitamin D production, which helps your body absorb calcium and phosphate to strengthen bones, teeth and muscles.

The pair don't dispute that sunlight has it's fair share of health benefits (Getty Stock Images)

"It can also be good for improving your mental wellbeing as it boosts serotonin levels in your brain. For people with symptoms of depression or anxiety, spending some time outside in the sun may help.

"Meanwhile, skin conditions like psoriasis can also benefit from UV radiation, as UVB rays slow the growth of the skin cells that form 'plaques'."

'His comments could prove damaging to an entire generation'

"But the takeaway many people will draw from his comments - that daily SPF is marketing rather than medicine - could be incredibly damaging not only to brands and their marketing strategies, but to an entire generation of people who have been raised being educated on the importance of SPF for overall skin health after years of misinformation," he added on behalf of Oxford Online Pharmacy.

"Daily SPF advice was never just public messaging - it rests on controlled trials."

Bradshaw also cites research done by the Skin Cancer Foundation, which states that regular daily SPF15 use can reduce the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma by about 40 per cent, and lower melanoma risk by half.

One dermatologist said the remarks could be 'damaging' (Getty Stock Images)

"Charities like this have no commercial interest in promoting SPF," he noted. "Its team of experts recommends a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher for everyday use, increasing to SPF 50 for outdoor activities - including if you work outdoors."

Despite this, Bradshaw didn't dispute that some cosmetics companies ensuring us that, if we add it to our routine year-round we'll be protected from the sun, could serve as a slight overpromise.

"We need to be aware of is brands promising the most expensive, highest-SPF product, without containing the recommended components that make them effective," he urges. "Consumers must ensure they review the ingredient list before purchasing.

"As experts state, a broad-spectrum SPF is the most important to look out for, as this protects against both UVA and UVB rays. The NHS also recommends at least 4-star UVA protection."